Salut!
I arrived in Kathmandu yesterday afternoon, after a rather unpleasant bus ride. Not that the bus ride was particularly bad, but I got some stomach problems and head ache and that made the bumpy road feel particularly "intense".
During the night I managed to sleep for an incredible 16h and I feel better now.
This might well be my last blog-post from this trip, as I'll arrive back in Germany on the 18th. I look forward to seeing you!
m
Monday, December 15, 2008
Sunday, December 7, 2008
Trekking the ABC
Yesterday, I came back from 6 days of trekking in the Himalayan Mountanis near Pokhara. In particular I went to the Annapurna Base Camp ("ABC"), which is a lovely spot, surrounded by high peaks, and just some 40km from the nearest road. I started of together with an American girl I had just met two days earlier, however on the second day she decided that her backpack was to heavy (it really was!) and she couldn't make it. So she turned around and I continued on my own. Not too bad, since now I could walk as fast as I wanted. I think I was quite fast, since my backpack was incredibly light. Partly because after traveling for some time I've learned to restrict myself to the necessary; partly because I just didn't have the right equipment for the mountains (i.e. warm cloth), and I also didn't want to buy the same for just one trip.
After three days of walking 6h, 7h, and finally 8h, I arrived at the Machapuchre Base Camp at 3500 m, which is just a two hour walk from the ABC. I stayed there for the night, as I was incredibly tired after walking the whole day and I had already gained quite a lot of altitude. Consequently I felt a little head ache and an uncomfortable feeling in my stomach. The next morning -- day 4 -- I went to the ABC. Even though the trail was not particularly difficult or steep, the thin air made it quite exhausting to cover the last part. I was happy to reach my goal and stayed at the top for until the next morning. Long enough to get a sunburn during the day, and freeze a lot after the sun set behind the mountains at 2 pm (!). I'm not sure how cold it was during the night, but it was below freezing. I'm glad I have a warm sleeping bag.
When I woke up the next morning I still felt a head ache and slight nausea, which set me in bad mood and I started descending immediately. I suddenly felt lonely and bored. Actually there really isn't much going on in the mountains. By 6 pm it's dark, but already by 4 pm it is too cold to feel comfortable outside. There were usually a few other people in the hut's but our conversations stayed shallow.
Originally I had hiking to some other places before returning, but I canceled those plans, and did the whole return trip in just two long days of walking.
I conclude, it was a great to hike up there and get closer to the amazing peaks. It was also nice go get out of the cities and populated areas, to places where there's just nothing. But that's was also the difficult part. Being on my own, I didn't want to stay in this solitude for more than a couple of days.
Now have a look at the pictures:
taking a rest on the way to the top
On the first days I was walking through the countryside. The hills were covered with rice fields ans small houses were scattered in between. In these areas there is no road access. Everything has to be carried in by man or donkey. In the more remote places it's about three day-walks to reach the road.
This is where I stayed at the top. Note the small print on the sign: "Annapurna Base Camp 4130 Meters". At first sight the base camp seems to consist only of the two lodges, catering to the many tourists coming up there. However after looking around for a bit you will find a "shrine", dressed in prayer flags (picture below), at which paper notes, photos, and some engraved metal plates remind of those who went further up the peaks and died there. Two climbers had passed only in May, this year.
I'm still alive
The whole way to the ABC is a well maintained tourist area. Shops like this on serve beer, Pringels Chips, Mars & Snickers and everything else the continental tourist enjoys. And the prises rise as you climb the hill, which is understandable, given that all those beer bottles are being carried there (and away!) by amazingly strong Nepali people.
Here are two of my favorite shots:
And at last, two shots from Pokhara. A lovely and relaxed city on the shore of Phewa Lake (see picture). I'll stay here for a couple of more days before going to Kathmandu, my last stop before 'home':
After three days of walking 6h, 7h, and finally 8h, I arrived at the Machapuchre Base Camp at 3500 m, which is just a two hour walk from the ABC. I stayed there for the night, as I was incredibly tired after walking the whole day and I had already gained quite a lot of altitude. Consequently I felt a little head ache and an uncomfortable feeling in my stomach. The next morning -- day 4 -- I went to the ABC. Even though the trail was not particularly difficult or steep, the thin air made it quite exhausting to cover the last part. I was happy to reach my goal and stayed at the top for until the next morning. Long enough to get a sunburn during the day, and freeze a lot after the sun set behind the mountains at 2 pm (!). I'm not sure how cold it was during the night, but it was below freezing. I'm glad I have a warm sleeping bag.
When I woke up the next morning I still felt a head ache and slight nausea, which set me in bad mood and I started descending immediately. I suddenly felt lonely and bored. Actually there really isn't much going on in the mountains. By 6 pm it's dark, but already by 4 pm it is too cold to feel comfortable outside. There were usually a few other people in the hut's but our conversations stayed shallow.
Originally I had hiking to some other places before returning, but I canceled those plans, and did the whole return trip in just two long days of walking.
I conclude, it was a great to hike up there and get closer to the amazing peaks. It was also nice go get out of the cities and populated areas, to places where there's just nothing. But that's was also the difficult part. Being on my own, I didn't want to stay in this solitude for more than a couple of days.
Now have a look at the pictures:
taking a rest on the way to the top
On the first days I was walking through the countryside. The hills were covered with rice fields ans small houses were scattered in between. In these areas there is no road access. Everything has to be carried in by man or donkey. In the more remote places it's about three day-walks to reach the road.This is where I stayed at the top. Note the small print on the sign: "Annapurna Base Camp 4130 Meters". At first sight the base camp seems to consist only of the two lodges, catering to the many tourists coming up there. However after looking around for a bit you will find a "shrine", dressed in prayer flags (picture below), at which paper notes, photos, and some engraved metal plates remind of those who went further up the peaks and died there. Two climbers had passed only in May, this year.I'm still alive
The whole way to the ABC is a well maintained tourist area. Shops like this on serve beer, Pringels Chips, Mars & Snickers and everything else the continental tourist enjoys. And the prises rise as you climb the hill, which is understandable, given that all those beer bottles are being carried there (and away!) by amazingly strong Nepali people.Here are two of my favorite shots:
And at last, two shots from Pokhara. A lovely and relaxed city on the shore of Phewa Lake (see picture). I'll stay here for a couple of more days before going to Kathmandu, my last stop before 'home':
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